Monday, April 25, 2016

Pune-Kerala Road trip Day 6: Shimoga to Pune: 665 kms + Epilogue

Woke up at 7 am and stepped down for a cup of local tea along with Vj. It was pleasant outside and the tea tasted OK. Came back to the hotel, took bath and was ready by 8:30 am. But surprisingly the other folks were not ready yet. Usually, I am the last one to get ready. Started writing about the previous day’s events by the time these guys took bath.
We stepped down for breakfast at 9:30 am and before having breakfast dude ensured that he met Madhu and worked his charm. She was all smiles and was blushing:such is the effect of our friend: effortless for him.
Just before leaving Shimoga
Just before leaving Shimoga

Route for the day

Rice Bowl had a decent spread: idli, wada, puri bhaji, tomato rice, toast, fresh fruits and water melon juice. Though the options were limited, the idli-wada was the best we had tasted in the whole trip.
Finally we checked out at around 10:30 am and started our day long journey back to Pune. Butts was doing the driving and the morning was more or less uneventful, except for a quick bio break in a papaya field. Most of the plateau was green on both sides with lots of paddy farms, banana and papaya orchards and few coconut trees. Butts commented on how large our country is and how self sufficient we are and I couldn’t agree more.
We reached NH4 by 12 pm and the roads got much better than SH25. Hubli was 1 hour 45 mins away and we decided that it would be a perfect place to break for lunch. There was a KFC in Hubli and it seemed to be a good option considering that our lunch break needed to be quick. We reached the Urban Oasis Mall which housed the KFC at 2 pm. The service at KFC was extremely slow and by the time we left Hubli after buying some Dharwad Pedha from Mishra Sweets shop, it was already 3:15 pm.
Urban oasis Mall, Hubli

KFC, Hubli
 
Dude took the wheel for the next stretch till Kolhapur and ride was smooth. I went to sleep in the car and managed to surprise myself again. Around 6 pm , we stopped at Vitthal Kamat restaurant on NH4 roughly 5 kms after Sai International Hotel. Vj asked me if I was still waiting for a miracle:)). We had seen good Kamats and bad Kamats, but I can tell without any second thought that this Kamat was the worst of all. The dosa was burnt, the wada was stinking and the missal was shitty. Thankfully the tea was ok.
Finally we started the last stretch of our journey. Pune was 190 kms away and Butts promised that we would be there before 9:30. Guess what, we were in Shivar Restaurant in Pimple Saudagar at 9:25 pm.

...Epilogue: 

Between drinks and dinner we reminisced the experiences of the last 6 days and had a few hearty laughs.
Turns out that I was wrong about the miracle. Miracles do happen. This 6 day trip itself was one! We had driven for more than 40 hours in 5 and a half days and covered 2240 Kms spread across 3 states!!

Route map for the whole trip
Koi Shak?

Amazing videos created by Vivek that capture the essence of the trip!





Tuesday, April 19, 2016

Pune-Kerala Road trip Day 3: Kasargod to Wayanad: 200 kms.

Didn't sleep well again. Woke up at 6 a.m. and went down for tea with Vj. Almost all shops were closed, but there was a lot of hustle bustle already. Vehicles and people were scurrying around even at this early hour which was surprising for a small town like Kasargod.

Breakfast at Highway castle set the tone for the day. Though the spread was simple, it was delicious, especially after the low standards set by dinner the previous night. Idli, dosa, puttu and kadala curry along with hot tea...aha!! Vivek ordered omelet for himself as he doesn't like south indian food too much.

Route for the day


Vivek took the wheel for a change and we started off around 10:30 am. Our first target was Bekal fort which was just 15 kms away and we reached there within 30 mins. To be frank the fort looked very ordinary from outside and I wasn't expecting much, but as soon as I stepped inside, the vastness of the place took me by surprise. Bekal fort is a national heritage site and is very well maintained. There were well manicured gardens and lawns inside. The experience got even better when we walked up one of the ramparts. The view was breathtaking: a lovely Bekal beach lay to the left and the ocean on the right. It was a mesmerizing scene and we spent a good amount of time soaking it in despite the heat. After spending a good hour within the fort in which a lot of pictures were clicked, we decided to leave for Wayanad, which was 6 hours away.
Bekal Fort

Entrance to Bekal Fort
Bekal Fort
Bekal Fort gate
Inside the Bekal Fort
View from the rampart
View from the rampart
the charlatans
at the Bekal fort

That is a boat
Inside Bekal fort

Inside Bekal fort

Inside Bekal fort

Vivek was driving well and we following all traffic rules written in the book. This is when I started writing about the previous days events and all of us got into the groove of enjoying today to the fullest. Vj recommended Mascot beach resort in Kannur for lunch for which had to take a detour. Everyone was craving for good local food and I was the most skeptical as usual about Vj's selection of the place. But Butts stood by him and we finally reach Mascot around 1:30 pm. The last dialogue before heading for lunch was by Vj "I will not take the blame if the food is not good".
The location of the resort was amazing and having lunch at a place overlooking the ocean is something that everyone was looking forward to. The lunch buffet had only traditional Kerala dishes and let me tell you that it was one of the best lunches of my life. Lentil soup, Sambhar, rasam, morucurry, pappadam, varuval, pachadi, boiled rice and payasam: every dish was perfect! Again Vivek stuck to north indian food: paneer masala and dal fry which was good too. We overate, especially Vj!! After lunch we clicked a few snaps and soaked in the beauty of the place. Let me tell you, it doesn't get more beautiful than this. The day was progressing very well..and our fingers were crossed.

Mascot Beach Resort, Kannur
Mascot Beach Resort, Kannur
Mascot Beach Resort, Kannur
Mascot Beach Resort, Kannur
Lunch at Mascot
Food for the soul..priceless!

After lunch, Butts took the wheel and we were back on our way to Wayanad. After an hour of driving, we started moving uphill and the weather started cooling down. In a matter of 5 hairpin bends, the temperature changed from 35 degrees to 28 degrees. Kerala is definitely God's own country: it is lush green and blessed with a superb climate. Even the trees adjoining the roads are full of fruits and flowers!! There were tea estates, rubber and spice plantations all around us. The quality of roads could get better though. Butts, Dude and Vj got into a deep conversation about religious conversions in Kerala. Many incidents and few names like AR Rahman were discussed and forgotten as soon as we hit Wayanad at 6 pm. The next hour was wasted as we searched for Hotels: the good ones didn't have rooms available, few others didn't respond to our phone calls and some were just too expensive. Finally we decided to go for Banasura Hill resort though it was a little expensive. The reviews said " amazing place with bad approach roads". We have had our share of bad roads in life and this wasn't going to stop us, so we went ahead on the narrow, bumpy off-road track till we were suddenly stopped by a local guy just 3 kms before the resort. He warned us about the bad state of the road ahead and asked us to turn back and take a different road which was safer for the car. As usual, we are super smart folks, so we thanked him for his advice, but decided to move ahead on the same path.

What happened next was something that we'll remember for the rest of our lives. The road was non existent, full of huge bumps and sharp rocks and there was very less chance of us moving ahead without scratching the sides or the bottom on the car. To make things worse, there was a small stream which wasn't too deep but had a steep incline on both sides of it. We had to go downhill for 20 meters, cross the stream and then go uphill for 20 meters. It looked nearly impossible that we could cross it without damaging the car even during day time, and it was pitch dark then. This is when team work kicked in: Vivek and I got down from the car to guide Butts through; Vijay also contributed just by stepping out of the car and making it lighter for the climb once the stream was crossed. It was going to require controlled aggression and precision to pull this through. Butts expertly maneuvered the car foot by foot avoiding the dangerous rocks and potholes and managed to reach the stream. The next step was to rev the engine in first gear for the car to climb the steep incline. Butts did just that, the car lunged forward, tires screeching, searching for contact; it moved inches ahead but couldn't find the momentum and slid back. Second attempt: same result! We decided to back the car off a little to find the momentum required to make the climb. Attempt three: All eyes on the car, it lunged, screeched and rocked on the potholes, dangerously close to the sides of the roads and inches away from getting scratched. There was a moment when it got stuck at the exact same position as the previous attempts and it felt like it wasn't going to make it. That was the moment to capitalize on. Vivek and I prayed, God listened, Butts floored the accelerator and the car jumped ahead. We were out!! Kudos to Butts!! While we were shouting with joy, Vijay came out from behind a tree where he was silently watering the plants and said "Wow..perfect timing!!"

We were all pumped up now! Thankfully the roads got a tad better and we reached Banasura hill resort around 8 pm. The resort looked, smelt and felt awesome! We decided to get an earth room with 2 extra mattresses as it was more economical than taking 2 separate rooms. The rooms were awesome and so was the buffet dinner! North indian food: chicken kadhai,dum aloo lahori,paneer mirch masala with a nice salad and hot rotis. And yes there were veg bullets too. God knows what they were made of but they were tasty!
Banasura Hill resort
Banasura Hill resort
Restaurant at the resort
View from the restaurant
Inside the Banasura Hill resort

Finally after some random conversations we decided to hit the sack! What a day it had been!! What a fcukin awesome day!!

Quotes:
1. You dont have a sensitive palette, you have a fucked palette.
2. Butts, teri g**** me bahut keeda hai, khali road dikha nahi ki bhagana shuru ho jaata hai.
3. Do you guys know that the origin of the word mascot is from muscat, so its gonna be a mulla restaurant.
4. When I drive, there are no cows.
5. To ek kaam karte hai, Nirvana me jaake poochte hai ki kal rooms tha ki nahi, phir teri g**** maarenge.





Pune-Kerala Road trip Day 2: Kolhapur to Kasargod: 650 kms.

Didn't sleep well, was up by 6 am. Stepped down for tea with Vj. The weather was perfect. It was pleasant and the air was fresh due to the rains last night.
Sunrise from Hotel Sai International

Sunrise from Hotel Sai International
Sunrise from Hotel Sai International

Splendid view from Hotel Sai International
Splendid view from Hotel Sai International
Splendid view from Hotel Sai International

The tea was better than the weather.


After quick bath, we were ready to have breakfast and start our journey for the day. It was going to be a long one. We had to cover 650 kms to reach Bekal by night. Breakfast was great. Butts and Vivek had misal pav, I had idli and toast butter and Vj had his protein bar. Finally we left at 8:30 am with Butts at the wheel.



Breakfast at Sai Fast food court
Breakfast at Sai Fast food court
Route for the day

The roads were really good and we made excellent progress and reached the Karnataka border faster than expected. The roads got better in Karnataka and we experienced dag---dag---dag---dag--dag--dag--dag--dag-dag-dag-dag-dagdagdag :). The discussions were mostly about what music to play and everyone had comments on every song played. At one point Vj said "if we were all eggs in a basket we would probably be from different birds". Made perfect sense.
Butts at the wheel
Dude poses while I write
At the Maharashtra-Karnataka Border
At the Maharashtra-Karnataka Border
Around 2.5 hours from Kolhapur, we took a right from NH4 to join SH1 at Dharwad. SH1 was going to take us to NH17 near Ankola. SH1 took us uphill. The roads started winding too often and so did our moods. I guess it was hunger. I asked them to stop at a small shop to taste the local chikki and chakli. Had 2 chikkis for 2 rupees, skipped the chalki as it looked dangerous and had a banana instead. The chikki was awesome. I had trouble deciphering the language and accent of the shopkeeper, which made me realize that I was far from home. Few kilometers ahead, Butts suddenly braked hard and I noticed that it was a cop who had stopped us. He looked more scared than us as he felt that butts was going to ram into him. He indicated something and asked us to park at the side of the road. On further questioning we came to know that there were 2 huge trailers coming from the opposite side with windmill blades and we would have blocked them on the hairpin bends that lay ahead of us. It was good to see them doing their jobs well. Jai Ho!
Most of the journey on SH1 was through small villages nestled within a forest. After watching a small shrine in the middle of nowhere butts commented that he was amazed how religion had penetrated so deeply in our country. Religion isn't about places, it is about people. There were debates on when and where to break for lunch when a Kamat Hotel-7kms away signboard popped up. I was hungry and was making a fuss about it and sadly we didn't have any snickers. We decided to check it out and stop if it looked ok. SH1 ended finally and we took a left on NH17. Another km down the road lay Kamat. The place looked good and so did the menu. The worst dish on the table was surprisingly the South Indian thali. :)) The winner was North Indian thali and mixed raita. Also let me tell you they don't serve by two. We had another 350 kms to go and a lot would depend upon the traffic and road conditions if we had to make it to Bekal on time.
Though the quality of road on NH17 was not great, we hit upon some beautiful scenery along the highway. There were rivers, beaches, backwaters adjoining the highway. We also took a slight detour to stop by at Murudeshwar Shiva Temple.
Lunch at Kamat, Ankola
Lunch at Kamat, Ankola
Lunch at Kamat, Ankola
Lunch at Kamat, Ankola

River on NH17
River on NH17
Bridge on NH17
Beach adjoining NH17
Temple across the beach
Beach adjoining NH17
Backwaters adjoining NH17
Beach adjoining NH17
Beach adjoining NH17

Beach adjoining NH17


Murudeshwar Shiva Temple
Murudeshwar Shiva Temple
Beach next to the temple
Murudeshwar Shiva Temple
Murudeshwar Shiva Temple

It all started going downhill after that. NH17 was not as good as NH4. There was lot of construction work going on in patches and our progress was slow. It only got worse as the traffic started getting heavy as well. By evening we had covered lesser miles than expected and our real personalities started becoming more pronounced. It is said that true test of character is only when things aren't going your way. It was evident that if we wanted to reach Bekal, it wouldn't be before 9:30-10 pm. Slowly everyone started having an opinion about where we should halt for the night. We never realized that we had stopped enjoying the journey and all we were doing was worry about the destination. Vj actually started looking for flights back home. :(( After Kundapura, the roads got better and progress was faster, but it was already dark and driving was difficult. We passed by Udipi, but I have seen more of Udipi in Mumbai than in Udipi. There was not a single coffee shop on the highway and the coffee lovers in the car were thoroughly disappointed.  We passed by Mangalore but it was too dark to notice anything. We finally entered Kerala around 8:30 pm.

The first thing that hit us in kerala was the overpowering presence of Muslims. Every shop or restaurant was either an Arabian Night or Al Khalifa.  Finally after multiple rounds of discussion and evaluating many options we decided to stay back in Kasargod for the night. Vj made a good suggestion to worry about dinner first and lodging second. As per him we were running out of options every passing hour and our chance to get decent veg food would disappear completely after 10 pm as everything would shut down in Kasargod. On his recommendation we decided to try out Indian Coffee House as everything else was a Shalimar or a Noor Jahan. I have been a huge fan of mughalai food and have visited all the good mughalai restaurants in mumbai and pune, however I was in for a shock. As soon as we entered the place, an overpowering smell of meat hit us. The waiter said that they had only paneer and green peas masala available in veg. We were fcukin hungry and decided to order whatever was available. The service was good and the food arrived early. However let me tell you, I am never going to Indian Coffee house ever again. :) I have a sensitive palate and the taste and smell of the food in ICH scarred it. I am going to take that smell and taste to my grave! Everyone else managed to gobble down some parotas, but I had a tough time. The food wasn't bad, but it was different.

We hurriedly paid the bill and started hunting for Hotel Highway Castle. Luckily it was close by and the restaurant was open when we reached. I ordered dal roti and Butts ordered fruit salad with ice-cream. The food was much better, but I had already lost my appetite and didn't enjoy it.  Vj got us a good discount at the hotel and he also managed to find beers for us, but unfortunately they turned out to be KF premiere instead of KF premium. They tasted like piss and my day ended  at a real low. Dude also taught us how to remove glycerol from beer, but that it a story in itself. It may change my life.  While all this happened, we had discussions about skipping going to Munnar as it was a good 11 hours away and we would have to spend most of the day on the road as well. We decided to pick destinations which were 5-6 hours away so that we could take time off the road and do some sightseeing. Tentative destinations that were discussed were Wayanad, Coorg and Ooty.

Is tomorrow going to be a better day?

Quotes of the day:
1. Butts, this is the end of civilization in Kasargod. Beyond this point you wont get any vegetarian food here.
2.  "If we were all eggs in a basket we would probably be from different birds